With sweeping synergy, this season’s Métiers d’Art collection read like the limited Chanel edition of connect-the-dots. Virginie Viard invited guests to Le19M, the newly opened building devoted to the workshops of the maison’s artisans, where she presented her most crafts-centric collection within the very same architecture that had informed its cuts and motifs. “I feel like I’m back at school when I’m here,” Viard said after the show, and she’d get top marks for organization.
You could see the façade’s organic grid-like structure in the tweed pockets that adorned the slender column coat that opened the show, and likewise on the tunic that followed. The idea was more figuratively suggested in the three-dimensional knitting of a purple crop-top-and-culotte ensemble, or the hand-spun gold ribbon embroidery of the top in exit 26. In the game of synergy, however, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.
You could say that’s the very raison d’être of the Métiers d’Art collection, too. Supporting that point, mid-show the Korean top model Soo Joo walked off the runway and stepped onto a pedestal where she transitioned into her new pop star alter ego Ether. Alongside Oneohtrix Point Never—the vaper-wave artist also known as Daniel Lopatin, who produces for The Weeknd—she performed her single “Haemin,” followed by the track 12.21 written specially for the finale.
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