Carriqui brings changes to old Liberty Bar space — and to South Texas culinary favorites

Carriqui is housed in the relocated and remodeled building that served as Liberty Bar's original location.

Attempts to revive the Liberty's original space after its departure never really took hold. The ghost, apparently, was gone. Many old-timers viewed with suspicion the prospect of relocating the building, the historic Boehler's Garden, into the Pearl's orbit. Avid food lovers may be more interested in investigating the historical basis for Carriqui's South Texas-centric menu, and they might as well start at the most basic level: its Old School Nachos, a borderland creation that made its way north only to be remodeled beyond recognition — much as the building itself. The plate is nothing more than tortilla chips, refried beans, yellow cheese and pickled jalapeño, each nacho individually assembled into a monkishly spare serving.

At the other end of the price spectrum, is the restaurant's beer-braised barbacoa. Made these days from beef cheeks, the age-old practice of wrapping a beef head in burlap or maguey leaves and burying it in a pit prepared with mesquite coals having long been abandoned, the dish usually lacks the earthy, fatty funk of the original.

All would be forgiven if Carriqui would take it upon itself to do a rip-roaring chili, a dish for which San Antonio was once famous. But barring that, brisket will have to do.

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