Gage & Tollner’s new owners, from left: Ben Schneider, Sohui Kim, and St. John Frizell. Photo: Jonas Fredwall Karlsson By the time the oyster- and chophouse Gage & Tollner closed in 2004 after a 125-year run, it had had eight different owners. When it reopens on March 15 at the same Downtown Brooklyn address, it will have 378.
The dining room in the 1960s. Photo: Courtesy of Richard Tollner When it closed for good, a victim of changing tastes as well as the traffic-restricting construction of the pedestrian Fulton Mall, this grandeur promptly faded. The space was leased to TGI Fridays, Arby’s, and a cut-rate jewelry shop until the landlord decided in 2016 that booming Downtown Brooklyn was ready for fine dining again. It was right around that time that St.
A timeline of matchbooks: from the 30s-40s; 50s-60s; 70s; 90s-00s; and the present, logo courtesy of Brooklyn design firm Order. Photo: Melissa Hom There was only one hitch: They needed a lot more cash. “We were looking for one or two big investors who could foot the whole bill,” says Frizell. It didn’t work out that way. Brooklyn’s old-money Establishment wasn’t interested in investing, and younger venture capitalists weren’t willing to invest enough .
As if that wasn’t enough to worry about, Gage & Tollner almost wasn’t Gage & Tollner — in name, anyway. The last owner, Joe Chirico of Marco Polo in Carroll Gardens, sold the building in 2004 but trademarked the name, reserving the right to open the restaurant elsewhere. Or at least he thought he had. “We were prepared to open under a different name,” says Frizell, and the team had a couple of favorites on standby.
Brooklyn can only be saved by being destroyed. Where’s Bane when you need him
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