Can London Fashion Week Come Back Alive?

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Despite the absence of household names like Burberry, young names like Nensi Dojaka, Knwls, and Harris Reed are helping keep London Fashion Week on the map.

would not be Browns. The energy, creativity and thought-provoking conversations that take place through these designers — and this city — is unmatched.”On Friday, all eyes will be on Dojaka, who is showing solo for the first time since graduating from the Fashion East showcase.“I just think the adrenaline of the show and that sense of anticipation can’t be compared to anything else — we’re kind of chasing those emotions,” said Dojaka in an interview.

“The idea is to keep it very minimal and chic and avoid anything vulgar,” said Dojaka, who first studied lingerie before doing the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins. “At Saint Martins, they did push that side of my work. I’ve always worked on a lot of details, like you would do with lingerie, and was drawn to clean, simple silhouettes. Now the way I design is still the same: I start small on the mannequin and always clean the look up a lot.

It worked, and ever since the world started reopening last September, Dojaka was able to attract major wholesale partners including Mytheresa, Luisa Via Roma, H Lorenzo, Selfridges, Antonia and, soon, Browns. “It’s important to take the right next steps to keep up this momentum. We all want to grow and the cheapest way for me would be to keep repeating the same stuff and commercialize it. But I’d rather still keep things small, be very selective about who wears the clothes and push myself to do something special every season,” said Dojaka. “That can sustain you so much more than celebrity exposure.”

Knwls is another buzzy name playing in this space and garnering big celebrity support, major stockists and plenty of Instagram exposure for its signature corset tops and body-framing printed leggings and matching tops — which everyone from Kylie Jenner to musician Kehlani favored during the lockdown and shared with their millions of followers.

 

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