Can a buzzy designer or unspoiled young talent alone change the fate of heritage brands facing a volatile economy and a crowded fashion landscape?Although the injection of fresh creativity is generally viewed as an effective strategy, the formula is not always a winning one as some observers underscore that it’s not enough to resurrect brands that are struggling to carve out a niche in the current environment.
These brands have seemingly yet to harvest the fruits of such partnerships. But are they really fruitful? “These brands have a strong brand image and the new talent needs to come in and identify it, but sometimes it’s just good to dissect the DNA and go back to the core….I think it’s always good to tap into a different, fresh mind, regardless of the size of the company,” she said.
There’s always some degree of exploitation, observers noted. Haid said this is common also at marquee brands teaming up with artists, but she questioned whether they would have gained the same recognition without partnering with those established labels. “I think definitely a good partnership should benefit both parties, it should be structured as such,” she said.
Among the fashion powerhouses tapping into a similar recipe, Emilio Pucci unveiled earlier this year its first collaborative effort with Christelle Kocher of Koché as part of its new strategy to invite guest creatives to interpret its rich heritage. Sidney Toledano, chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion Group, said at the time the approach would inject more creativity.“It has to be fresh, it has to be new,” he offered. “We give them some freedom and they give us their own vision.
“Smaller-scale brands think they can follow a similar strategy but in the end, partly because those brands have less brand identity, partly because the creative types they tap lack the needed strength in terms of awareness, that approach is less successful,” he added, mentioning Blumarine as one such example.
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