Buzzy Beauty Ingredient of the Moment: Arbutin

Welcome to our series "Buzzy Beauty Ingredient of the Moment," the premise of which is pretty self-explanatory: In each installment, we'll explore an ingredient that's currently trending in the industry, springing up in a variety of different products lining the beauty aisle. We'll consult experts to find out about the science behind it — and why it's having a major moment right now.

"Arbutin is an extract from the bearberry plant that has skin-brightening properties," explains Dr. Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital. "It interferes with activity of an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is needed to produce melanin or pigment in the skin." For this reason, it's most commonly used in lotions, serums and treatments intended to lighten dark sun spots and brighten the overall complexion.

According to the Paula's Choice ingredient directory, arbutin "also has merit for improving the appearance of dark spots due to unprotected sun exposure or bodily changes such as can occur during pregnancy or due to other factors." Dr. Zeichner notes that it's commonly used as an alternative to the skin-bleaching cream hydroquinone, which not only can't be used on dark skin tones, but also has been called into question for safety reasons .

Like any other part of your skin-care routine worth sticking to, it takes a little while for arbutin to do its thing. "Skin brightening does not occur over night," says Dr. Zeichner. "Results take weeks to months to start to kick in, so you must be patient and stick to your regimen."

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