Saugus, Mass.—Drive north of Boston along Route 1 for around 15 minutes and you can’t miss Kowloon. It’s the colossal restaurant with a 30-foot Tiki god statue out front.
Inside, there’s a brightly lit bar serving Mai-tais and chicken wings. On the second level, there’s a showroom stage where Jerry Seinfeld, Frankie Avalon and Phyllis Diller have performed. Walk a little further inside, and the host will show you to your seat at the 1,200-seat pan-Asian restaurant. You can sit next to a lagoon, inside booths shaped like tiki huts, or on the deck of a fake ship, complete with a mast, sails and emergency rafts.
Bobby Wong’s family spent the past 70 years turning Kowloon into a spot where locals, sports heroes and professional wrestlers mingle. But the end is coming. The Wong family says it is planning to tear Kowloon down. And Boston is flipping out. “It’s time,” said Bobby Wong, 66, who runs the restaurant with five of his siblings. ”I was born into this, but it’s a tough lifestyle. I look at my children and my brothers’ children and they’ve all gone into different careers.”
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