Bevza Pre-Fall 2023 Collection

For pre-fall, Svitllana Bevza was thinking about building a wardrobe that can last a lifetime. “In this collection, there is a lot of anthology of Bevza, and of me, because I was thinking about what I would wear, how I could combine these things with my wardrobe, how they could last for a lot of seasons, because there’s a lot of overproduction now,” she said during a Zoom call from her native Ukraine. “Elegance is a good investment.

Which means there are many good—no, great—investments to be had in this collection. There were elegant suits: like the cropped jacket and simple handkerchief hem wrap skirt that opened the collection; another, a very on-trend oversized jacket paired with a slim, pleated maxi skirt with a bra-hook closure detail. “We used this for our shoes a couple years ago,” the designer recalled. “I would say this look is very closed, emotionally closed, but with this closure on the front, it’s a bit flirty.

The standout pieces of the collection are surely the ones that bear an influence of the designer’s heritage; not only are they objectively beautiful, they are also proof of the importance of keeping centuries-old traditions alive. Another skirt suit, this time a cream short jacket with traditional frog button closure paired with a midi skirt with a slight mermaid hem was knitted by hand by a local artisan in Kyiv. “This is a very special piece for us,” she explained.

Throughout our conversation, there were glimpses of what it’s like to be a creative in a country besieged by war: the artisan having to work by daylight because of blackouts, their original shoot date being canceled by raid alarms,” her penchant for the color white. “White means always, a blank sheet of paper, a next day, something new, like you’re creating your life.”

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