Beautiful Dead Birds Were 2019’s Hottest Fine Dining Trend

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Poultry dominated with two food trends this year. In fast food, it was the Popeyes chicken sandwich. In fine dining, it was dishes like tempura duck brain served in a taxidermied duck head, with a spoon made from the duck’s bill

Ditte Isager/courtesy of Noma

But the meaning of the dead bird trend becomes more than just spectacle when placed in contrast with 2019’s other big trends: a mass-market fried chicken sandwich and the rise of fake meat. Thedebuted in August and commanded lines, hot takes, and fever-like devotion for months, despite the fact that this chicken was assuredly the product of despicable industrial-scale farming and fast-food labor practices. Meanwhile, the biggest food retail story of the year was.

”I’ve definitely heard from a lot of guests that it’s nice to see what it is that you are eating,” says Mette Søberg, head of research and development for Noma’s test kitchen. There are other senses to consider, too. “The idea of touching something, getting to touch the wing or the feathers, some animal skin. All these tactile feelings are very important.”

 

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I mean Popeyes should be doing the second one there.

🤮

One of those is unlike the other.

🤮

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