Garlic and nostalgia. Service fee confusion. And a guide to Chinese scallion 'big pie.' I'm Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week's Tasting Notes. Love was in the air and so was garlic as I sat in traffic on Valentine's Day and watched more than a dozen couples merrily floating in pedal-powered swan boats on Echo Park Lake.
Back in the day we would have also ordered El Colmao's sweet plantains. Margy loved her chicken fricassee in tomato sauce, which was close to what I remembered. But it was the pierna de puerco that really sent me back in time. Jonathan typically ordered the pork with moros y cristianos — rice and black beans sautéed, Jonathan once wrote, 'with enough fat pork to make you cry uncle.' But I always ordered my black beans and rice separate at El Colmao. I wasn't disappointed.
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