Asparagus mimosa is France’s sunny, eggy ode to spring

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Asparagus and eggs are a natural pairing in the spring, and asparagus mimosa combines them with a vinaigrette for a perfect brunch dish.

It hibernates all winter — the “crown” and its roots lurking underground — and only when the soil warms and the light changes does it send shoots upward until they poke through the surface and start stretching toward the sun, painting the brown garden in shades of green and purple. Sunlight is crucial: The chlorophyll that gives most asparagus its green color converts the sun’s energy into sustenance.

A fresh start as the days lengthen: This defines the promise of spring, for us as much as for asparagus and other vegetables. We put the darkness behind us — or try to, anyway — and reach for the light.In the kitchen, asparagus shines in the spring, especially when paired with eggs, one of its favorite partners.

Sometimes I develop my own recipes for this column, and sometimes I spotlight the great work of other cooks and authors. And I love hearing from readers: Feel free to email me atis also a fan, and in Paris, where he lives, asparagus fills the farmers markets every year around this time. He’s been excited to see more green spears rather than so much of the white .

If you’re not familiar with the dish already, let me set one thing straight: Asparagus mimosa doesn’t have anything to do with champagne and orange juice, although that would be a fine accompaniment. Instead, it gets its name from the way sieved egg yolks on a backdrop of whites evokePerhaps more importantly, it’s downright delicious. And it’s pretty simple, all the better to showcase the flavors of its starring ingredients.

Lebovitz has an excellent recipe on his website, but the spirit of asparagus mimosa is that you can make it fairly off the cuff, using your favorite vinaigrette. To save a little time , I like to steam the asparagus and eggs together, pulling out the asparagus first and plunging it into an ice bath to protect that hard-won green color and keep it from getting too soft, then doing the same with the eggs before peeling them.

 

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