As comfort food takes over, will we ever want white tablecloth dining again?

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The pandemic hasn't killed fine dining — but it is forcing it to evolve.

The pandemic ushered in a new level of dining, from revamped drive-through options to family packs of comfort food to home-cooked meals. So did it kill off fine dining? Experts say the white tablecloth experience is not dead yet — but it has been forced to evolve.

“Drive-thru, delivery, curbside, and other off-premises options were perceived as safer by customers during the early stages of Covid. We were all eating in our cars. So these channels simply surged to the forefront of consumer preference, and restaurants responded,” said Danny Klein, editorial director of Food News Media, in an email.

In addition, customers are adding on trips to the same restaurant, choosing to dine in out on Friday but then also getting their favorite meal"to go" on Tuesday. The interconnected “reefs” of the various dining ecosystems and price points were hit by a collective tragedy of the pandemic, said Adam Platt, food critic for New York Magazine.

“Restaurants are a very resilient, hard-working industrious group of people,” Platt said. “It’s a battle for them in the best of times. Right now it’s a war of attrition." He has seen and implemented changes. Party sizes are smaller and business demand is off. Valet service is postponed as guests don’t want strangers in their cars. Guests may be slightly late for reservations due to waiting 20 minutes for an Uber or driving around looking for parking. Diners are more inclined to want to sit outside on nice days. Following a surge in the highly contagious delta variant of the coronavirus, he said many restaurants had seen about a 20 percent falloff.

 

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