Alessandro Michele, previously the designer at Gucci, is the new creative director at Valentino, part of a surprise reshuffling of high profile designers in the past two weeks. Early last week, Dries Van Noten announced he is leaving the label he launched nearly 40 years ago. On Friday, Valentino’s creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had been at the brand for 25 years, announced he would depart.
Style is where The Washington Post covers happenings on the front lines of culture and what it all means, including the arts, media, social trends, politics and yes, fashion, all told with personality and deep reporting. For more Style stories,Designers — or more accurately, their CEOs — are often playing musical chairs, but the shuffling of three high-profile designers in less than two weeks is whiplash-inducing.
Julie Gilhart, the longtime fashion director at Barneys New York who works with emerging fashion talents at the Tomorrow Group, says that fashion always reflects dissatisfactions in the larger world. “The world seems so chaotic and no one has answers. We have so much technology that we’re not really good at managing it, or knowing where it’s going,” she continues. “But it doesn’t address our souls.
Actress Hari Nef, another Michele acolyte and close observer of fashion’s comings and goings, said that Michele’s return signals a move away from the laser focus quiet luxury. “Over the last few years, fashion has assumed a conservative pose: simultaneously self-effacing and grand. The condition at the center of ‘quiet luxury’ is ‘Look at me! Don’t look at me!’” she says.
Then there’s the possibility of Van Noten’s heir. Van Noten, who does everything with crisp humanity, is likely to take his time naming his successor, and will pick a trusted talent rather than a splashy name — Meryll Rogge, who once worked with Van Noten before founding her own label, as well as a print maven like Hillary Taymour, of Collina Strada, or a color savant like Christopher John Rogers, all seem like strong possibilities.
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