Rosas was born in Brooklyn but spent four years of his early life in San Juan Huiluco. “We lived in a humble community,” he says. “But when we had fiestas, that’s one thing that always sticks with me, when all the food vendors came out. Cemitas, tortas, tacos, moles, chiles en nogadas, you name it, and lots of people. And that stays with me, that feeling of food and people feeling joy.
On a Saturday afternoon in March, I tried Rosas’s picaditas de salsa verde topped with carnitas. The carnitas are Michoacán-style — picnic cuts of ham are braised in lard in a copper pot, then heated until the meat crisps — building on a recipe from Rosas’s stepfather Bulmaro Guillén, who is from Michoacán. The succulent bits of crispy pork are tender on the inside and seem to melt, while the salsa verde adds a spicy tang that soaks into the blue corn base.
“Back then, there was no other Mexican restaurant around that part of Roosevelt Avenue,” Zapata said. “We gained our popularity by being in this location for so long and for being one of the first to open in this neighborhood.”
QueenKadie this might help on your quest for good Mexican food in the city
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