An Eater’s Guide to Visiting (and Drinking) Champagne

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From tastings on a vintage bullet boat to farm-to-table feasts in an old train depot, here’s where to eat, drink, and relax in France’s most famous wine region

In 2017, this fourth-generation family-run champagne house in Damery opened a professional tasting room and state-of-the-art kitchen, where Anne Malassagne and her brother Antoine oversee cooking workshops meant to highlight the pairing potential for their champagnes.

Come spring, the house will once again run Champenois lunches in a cabin situated at the heart of its vines in Bisseuil. Prices available upon request.The Philipponnat family, who traces its roots to the region as far back as the 16th century and has been operating as a producer since 1910, occupies unique real estate in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The house is best known for the Clos des Goisses, a 13.

Depending on the season, you might find a brunch spread featuring fennel and orange salads , Champenois pink lentils, a chard and pine nut tart, a selection of cheeses such as Chaource, Langres, and Tomme des Ardennes, and fruit-based desserts like rhubarb tart, cherry clafoutis, peaches in lemon verbena syrup, pineapple infused with ginger and lemon syrup, and sweet spiced oranges.

The more exclusive culinary experience is set across the street from Cellier in the UNESCO-protected 18th-century private mansion, called the Maison Belle Epoque, that was once home to Perrier-Jouët’s founding family. Though the house was fully restored in 2017, the Friday and Saturday lunches served among the largest private collection of French Art Nouveau in Europe mark the first time it has opened to the public.

Unlike most pairing menus in which the wine is meant to complement the food, here it’s the food that adapts to the cuvées , not the reverse. The citrus notes in the Belle Epoque Rosé 2010, for example, was highlighted with desserts such as a poached pear granita atop fresh grapes and quince jelly cut with Champagne marc, that leaned fruity and acidic rather than sweet.

 

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