Amid chaos, these Portland restaurants found a way to look forward — and thrive

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Many Portland chefs and restaurateurs are finding the wherewithal to look forward.

Collin Mohr and Aaron Kiss grew up together in Ogden, Utah, and cooked their way through kitchens in Salt Lake City and Portland before opening Ruthie’s in October 2020, after pandemic restaurant layoffs left them out of work.

Wild roots cucumber salad, from top left, “Grandma’s rolls,” pork coppa with peaches and chicharrones, bottom left, and wild roots roasted squash salad, from Ruthie’s. “Mormon food is so loose-ended,” said Mohr, ”and it’s stuck in the ’50s in some ways. But it lets us express our personalities. We’re doing Pacific Northwest cuisine with a Mormon influence and making it ours.

 

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