Nothing about this surprises me; following her on Instagram for the better part of a year led me to experience the sort of assumed intimacy one experiences when meeting people from the internet in real life. Roman’s fame is, for now, insular; her recipes are most frequently shared with the circles of people who stay glued to recipe Twitter and pay close attention to thefood section’s newsletter, “What to Cook This Week,” which often features Roman’s recipes.
Roman is a woman known to me for her very good recipes and her indefatigable ability to engage with her fans. Buying into the hype about Roman went against my natural inclination towards contrarianism; if everyone likes a thing or a person, then I am liable to do the opposite out of spite. But my awareness of Roman grew organically, against my will: I rarely pay attention to
The stew’s popularity, though, also brought some trouble, in that it could be interpreted as a curry—a watered-down version of a Jamaican dish, or an Indian one, or a Japanese one. Though Roman is quick to assure me that she never positioned the stew that way, its eventual detractors took issue with the dint of cultural appropriation.
The accusations, in Instagram DMs mostly, that #TheStew was a half-baked whitewashing of ingredients and flavors enjoyed and pioneered by brown people, is an issue that Roman says she does not take lightly. The stew’s ingredients are found in many different cuisines, from Afro-Caribbean to South Asian. As its popularity climbed, naysayers came out of the woodwork to protest. Slate published aIt is clear that the Slate piece is a sensitive subject.
Roman’s recipes are delicious, simple, and toe the edge of fancy not in ingredient but in preparation. Her food photographs well, but more importantly, it’s actually very good. The flavors, the styling, and the breezy, cheery way Roman writes her recipes evokes a 2010s Laurie Colwin—switch out Colwin’s hot plate in her tiny studio apartment for a regular but enviable Brooklyn kitchen with good light and a beat-up gas stove, and the analogy works.
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