Alexis Mabille presented a capsule of eveningwear in a mirrored gallery in a Paris passage; set up as an intimate salon de couture, it was a charming frame for the designer’s. Called Evening Essentials, it was a concise occasion wardrobe that Mabille’s high-flying, party-loving clientele will surely love.
“It keeps an ésprit couture, but it has the ease and sleek of prêt-à-porter,” he said. Mabille is a designer with a natural understanding of French chic, which he treats with both respect and a sense of humor. Here, he softened the formality of couture eveningwear with a modern, uncomplicated twist that will appeal to his younger fans. Pieces looked elegant but effortless and versatile: a billowy chemise-dress in pale pink taffeta had an ample back ‘à la Watteau.
Other more form-fitting options, such as a slip dress in red chantilly lace, or a sinuous dusty pink number worn under a matching embroidered bolero, had an ease about them which didn’t detract from their “va-va voom effect,” as Mabille called it. While he likes a bit of drama, there was nothing flashy or overtly body-con in the collection, rather a feel for away of approaching eveningwear. Plays of bows, trompe-l’oeils and plissé details introduced a bit of frivolity.
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