Alexander McQueen’s SS22 show made London's gloomy weather look chic

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For the first time in 20 years, Sarah Burton brought Alexander McQueen back to London with a SS22 collection inspired by the city's bad weather.

— Lee McQueen took it to Paris at the turn of the millennium, largely for business reasons. But now, the timing couldn’t be better for a restart. For its first show in a year and a half, Sarah stepped aside from the official fashion week schedule and placed McQueen in a sky-high league of its own. It’s a British brand, after all, with a studio and offices here — and a design team that is constantly seeking to preserve British craft and celebrate British style.

“We spent a lot of time in the studio and were surrounded by the sky and it felt like it represented a lot of things,” she explained after the show. “It can be turbulent, it can be beautiful, it can be passionate, it can be frightening and dangerous … I wanted to express that in the collection — there are things beyond our control, like nature. We are a part of nature. You can’t harness it. You have to respect it.

More generally, women are strong and courageous every day. One of the most striking things about this show was the casting, a mix of svelte catwalk regulars and ‘real’ women who Sarah has met through working on films during lockdown. It grounded the collection, just as much as the stomping leather boots and rubber-soled white sneakers. Some of these women were boyish with James Dean quiffs, others more rockabilly with tattooed bodies, or buzzcut punks.

 

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