Agnes brings witty cooking and a serious cheese counter to Old Pasadena

To surrender into the flow of Agnes — an ambitious, ever-crowded, 4-month-old restaurant and market on a bustling block in Old Pasadena — order the dish that best embodies its rhythm and wit: loaded baked potato dumplings.

Loaded baked potato dumplings — gnocchi crossed with a Midwestern baked potato — at Agnes in Pasadena.Thomas Kalb and Vanessa Tilaka, the married chefs and owners who run Agnes, make a running theme out of these kinds of skillful larks. Kalb runs the kitchen. He grew up in Iowa and uses a populist sort of white Midwestern culture as a springboard for his eclectic menu, though more in respectful homage than spoof. A handful of corn nuts scatter across meat and cheese boards.

Kalb and Tilaka met while working at Italian favorite Flour + Water in San Francisco; pasta was always a given at Agnes. Kalb keeps the selection at three or four. He’s tinkered with the loaded baked potato dumplings: An early version had crisped pancetta, and the lardons are better, oomphier. A forthright red sauce variation usually stays in the mix. Lately it’s radiatori in marinara with pecorino and burrata.

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