Adam Lippes Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

“When everyone is saying that New York Fashion Week is dead, it seems like the perfect time to show.” Adam Lippes hosted breakfast and his first-ever sit-down show this morning at Veronika, the new Roman and Williams–designed restaurant in the Swedish photography center and museum Fotografiska. It was a lavish spread at a moment when other designers of his ilk seem to be in retreat, but if Lippes has a contrarian streak when it comes to business, he makes some of fashion’s most comely clothes.

His new collection was inspired by an enchanted visit to the garden of Umberto Pasti in Rohuna, Morocco. He’s hardly alone in his penchant for flowers, of course; its the manner in which he reproduces them that elevates his designs. He used a lovely silk fil coupé—its gold and yellow threads vibrant against a white ground—for a frothy evening smock with ruffles at the neck and cuffs, and fulsome blossoms were placement printed above the hem of a willowy long-sleeve dress.

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