A mesa é um altar, the table is an altar

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For L.A. food artists, culinary style is its own choreography.

— stuffed with beef, cod, cream, and chicken, which I eat and wash down with a tall glass of passion fruit juice. I’m thinking about the freshly squeezed juices at my uncle’s house in the northeast of Brazil, theFood stylists can transport you with their work. The table is the point of departure.It’s also a space where the work comes together.

Karla Subero Pittol also often collaborates with local chefs, bringing in their unique flavors and specialties to the rotating crowd at Chainsaw. Here, she holds a whole fish, just before marinating and grilling.this space that is mine is also yours Ho — who now mostly collaborates with other restaurants, brands and private clients and does pop-ups for Sanditas — is one for a lavishly long table with a “Mad Hatter kind of spread,” where “one person at the end of table is having to reach over and then pass this and pass that.” I’m thinking, again, of the table at my uncle’s house, where there were sometimes up to 15 of us, at turns standing and sitting, choosing between multiple breakfast options .

Pereira doesn’t use recipes. She — like her mother, Francisca — has never owned a measuring spoon. Pereira prefers an unmediated relationship with her ingredients: “Food communicates in a pure way.” Pureness factors into her artworks as well. Pereira doesn’t sketch her artworks; she paints directly on the paper and builds her bowls and sculptures with her hands.

Ideally, Cho knows all the hands that have touched her food, specifically the people who grew and tended to it. “A carrot is a carrot, but a carrot that I know Andrew grew or that I know that this season it was hard to grow because there was a lack of water, and that’s why it’s shaped like this — that’s what gives the thing something extra from me,” she says. “Because that creates the narrative that creates value.”On my visits to each chef’s home, I watch them dig their hands into dough.

 

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I like cleaning my fingernails with the rolls

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