A Letter From Paris Under Lockdown

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French President Emanuel Macron declaring the country is at war against COVID-19. Vogue contributor Amy Verner shares her impressions of Paris under lockdown.

protests, when all the stores would get boarded up each Saturday, people would comment that this looked like wartime. It turns out that was just a superficial impression; now we are using the language of wartime and only just starting to feel its consequences. During WWII, several hotels in Paris were occupied by the Nazis, but they remained open. It is mildly shocking to see all the landmark hotels completely closed.

I don’t want to give the impression that this city has lost its joie de vivre. Last Friday, the model Sophie Koella posted a new twist on the block party, with a DJ blasting music from an apartment window so that anyone in the neighboring buildings could open their windows and dance—and it appeared as though many did. I can only imagine this is already catching on elsewhere in the city.whereby people open their windows to clap and salute the medical workers.

While the restaurants might have gone dark, Circus Bakery is among those that has shifted into delivery mode, and receives upwards of 100 orders per day for its famous organic sourdough cinnamon rolls , apple pies, and hearty breads. As a bonus surprise, my multigrain loaf was dropped off by Arthur Kar, arguably the city’s coolest car dealer, whose L’Art de l’Automobile clothing brand stages installations during fashion week.

The scientific counsel to the government has advised that the confinement throughout France continue until the end of April. Ah yes, April in Paris. I can hear Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald singing, “I never knew my heart could sing/Never missed a warm embrace ’til/April in Paris…” and my eyes well up for all of us. I noticed on my walk this morning that the chestnut trees cited in the song are sprouting green tips.

 

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