Humans arrived on the islands about 1,000 years ago. Those first Polynesians were skilled navigators who stocked their sailing canoes with a pantry starter kit — pigs, chickens, and dogs, along with the cuttings, tubers, and plants they needed to grow taro, sweet potato, breadfruit, bananas, coconuts and sugarcane. Those ingredients became part of an agricultural land-management system based on the and his people needed, from fish to freshwater.
Now, when we speak of Hawaiian food, we refer to just a handful of dishes made by a handful of restaurants and home cooks, altered by modern tastes and historical forces but still recognizably Hawaiian.
A few places have turned over to a new generation, fortunately: Young’s Fish Market, opened in 1951 as, well, a fish market, and since expanded to prepared Hawaiian food, now sells poke bowls and sea asparagus salad along with kālua pig plates. Yama’s Fish Market has great laulau plates, but is now also known for its killer desserts, like haupia layered with sweet potato puree atop a shortbread crust.
SarahNEmerson
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