A book, and sport, for a depressed, addicted culture

as a natural way to heal addiction and trauma, two things that millions of people are struggling with.

Ziolkowski argues that surfing, like drugs and alcohol, offers passage into a “liminal state.” It’s a place in between heaven and earth. Drugs and intoxicants also offer an escape to an in-between place but in a far more dangerous and deadly way. Ziolkowski is a writer with a Guggenheim Fellowship and a doctorate in English literature from Yale University, and the writing is both sharp and lyrical. He is also a very good reporter, providing short and compelling biographies of great surfers such as Kelly Slater and Andy Irons and explaining the neuroscience of addiction.Translated as “spirit against spirit,” it means that the religious spirit of God can be used to combat the “spirits” of drugs and alcohol.

Source: Healthcare Press (healthcarepress.net)

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