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In Texas, barbecue is about beef: specifically brisket, the cut by which any joint is judged. Brisket has become a favorite of restaurant chefs, too, hence the smoke ribbons and Hank Williams songs drifting out of restaurants as far away as Brooklyn. But can great brisket be made at home? I devoted a weekend to the task and learned hat with a few key ingredients—salt, pepper, patience, and advice from Aaron Franklin, my neighbor and the pitmaster atin Austin—swoonworthy results are doable.

For a smoker: Fill chimney starter with charcoal; light and let burn until coals are covered with a thin layer of ash. Pour contents of chimney into one side of grill. Place 3 chunks of wood next to coals. Place grate on grill and cover grill, making sure to position vent on lid as far from heat source as possible. . Stick thermometer through top vent. Heat until thermometer registers 225-250 degrees, adjusting vents on bottom and top of grill as needed to maintain temperature.

Need a cheat? If you just don't want to spend your whole day at the grill, here's a fail-safe, Aaron Franklin-endorsed alternate method that will deliver similarly glorious results: Smoke brisket on grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of meat registers 150-170 degrees, 5-6 hours. Wrap brisket in foil, place on a baking sheet, and cook in a 250-degree oven until meat reaches the same 195-205 degrees internal temperature, 4-6 hours longer.

Need a cheat? If you just don't want to spend your whole day at the grill, here's a fail-safe Aaron Franklin-endorsed alternate method that will deliver similarly glorious results: Smoke brisket on grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of meat registers 150-170 degrees, 5-6 hours. Wrap brisket in foil, place on a baking sheet, and cook in a 250-degree oven until meat reaches the same 195-205 degrees internal temperature, 4-6 hours longer.

 

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