Why Breaking The Rules Is The Key To Beautiful Make-Up

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The new-season beauty directive demands that beauty rules are rewritten – and, as the UK continues to self-isolate, there's no better time to experiment.

Convention dictates that everything about Lucia Pica’s make-up on Ugbad Abdi is wrong. Who puts blush on the chin and forehead? Or shimmering gloss on the face and lips at once? For those familiar with Pica’s work, though – and, indeed, that of any of the truly great make-up artists, who like to play with colour and texture rather than follow tradition – it’s all par for the course. Pica, who isglobal creative make-up and colour designer, believes in keeping the job fun and inventive.

We also need time and the mindset to enjoy ourselves, to be present and to play. As well as a degree of technical know-how. “It’s important to understand how texture works, because this will create depth. Take the shimmering eyes that you see here, that’s not just gloss, there’s a layer of shimmering eyeshadow underneath.”© Zoe Ghertner

By varying the pressure of your fingertips, brush or any other tool you use for application, you will also create a different mood. “The red lip colour I used was almost the same texture as the watery eye colours, but I used the red in a much more heavy-handed way and achieved a very different effect as a result.”

Perhaps the hardest thing is to learn is when your look is complete. “To recognise the moment when you stop is in a way to recognise yourself, your own concept of what is beautiful,” says Pica. “And then you know it is finished.” Or as the saying goes: free yourself, and the rest will follow.More from British Vogue:

 

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