Two Vogue Editors Search For Peace Of Mind On Radically Different Wellness Retreats

Calling all stressed-out urbanites: in a sunshine-soaked corner of Puglia, there are some fennel bulbs waiting to be harvested. Reconnecting with nature by way of gardening in the grounds ofis all part of the hotel’s Happiness Break. And so it was that I found myself wresting vegetables from the earth in preparation for that evening’s supper .

I was in the market for both. Drained after a punishing round of fashion shows – late nights, uncomfortable benches, hours of iPhone blue light – I was struggling to shift a cold and horribly hunched shoulders. I’d also been contemplating what was next on the life checklist. “The mistake we make is confusing happiness with success,” says Erica D’Angelo, director of wellbeing at Borgo Egnazia’s Vair Spa.

But I’d consent to a triangle pose for weeks if it bought me one more hour in the Vair Spa – an intimate, candlelit space built of honey-hued local stone, through which women glide in rose-pink gowns. A massage during which sage leaves covered my eyelids and my body was spritzed with lemon juice by the irrepressibly positive Dora, was life-changing. “Feel happy,” said Dora, as she led me to the steam room. I did.

As soon as I arrived at the compound, I was swept out of a BMW and into my suite by a coterie of beaming staff. I’d not even unpacked before a lovely nurse knocked on the door to take vials of my blood. Next, my personal GP explained she’d see me every day and dispatch me to whichever of the on-site specialists she found most fitting, scheduling abdominal ultrasounds and cardiograms between medical-grade massages and trips to the hammam.

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