Tor de force: how to enjoy the brooding beauty of Dartmoor Devon

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It took our writer seven years to grasp the subtle drama of south Devon’s national park. As he prepares to leave the area, he shares some local knowledge and his favourite spots

When I first walked the moor, after relocating to Totnes in 2014, I found it hard even to see it – in the senses of observe, make sense of and appreciate. I had acknowledged it as a brooding presence on drive-bys along the A38, but found that the closer you get the less you behold. The lanes that crawl up its sides are more often than not buried inside deep hedgerows. Every corner is blind and dangerous; every vista glimpsed is quickly cut off by another wall of greenery.

 

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The shortest route is never the easiest on Dartmoor.

WilliamNB

Don't go at the weekend, bank holiday or any other day likely to bring out the hordes?

Took me one day, a few hours after arrival the first time. Next time I was ready and still awed.

Last time I did a Dartmoor hike got stuck in a bog twice 😂 Can't wait to visit again

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