This Season, Grace Wales Bonner Is Using Mambo To Explore Black Identity

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For her SS20 collection, the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prizewinner has directed her focus towards black rhythmicality, the transcendent rituals of dance, and mid-century Afro-Cuban aesthetics.

Grace Wales Bonner has long revolved her seasonal collections around explorations of the African diaspora – whether examining 1940s Creolité or the wardrobes of 1980s Howard University academics, her designs are recurrently rooted in historical narratives.

A contemporary vision of Forties tailoring paid tribute to the lessons she learned in the Dior archives after collaborating with Maria Grazia Chiuri earlier this year, while the intricate craftwork she is fascinated with appeared in silk crochet waistbands and pleated guayabera shirting. There was also the occasional appearance of painterly florals inspired by the Haitian surrealist painter Hector Hyppolite.

 

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