The Scandi Vibe Shift: Are Denmark’s Designers Done With Minimalism?

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“I see it as a third wave of Scandi chic”: Once known for its pared-back, polished aesthetic, this season Copenhagen Fashion Week showed that something darker and more disruptive is bubbling up among the city’s designers

This season, vision’s guests sat around ornate dining tables at the historic hotel restaurant, Josty. Greeted by piles of half-eaten plates and red-wine-stained tablecloths, a jazz band treated the crowd to renditions of classic 90s/00s hits from the likes of the.

The brand’s show took place at the Bella Centre: a large, square space submerged in darkness; a delicate mist hung in the air. “It was very dark, so some people were like, ‘Oh, you can’t really see the clothes that well,’ but it’s about taking what you want to take away from it,” he says. The designer explains that the label intends to create an intuitive universe, where people are encouraged to wear PLN’s designs in their own way.

But what happens when an older, more commercial brand wants to get in on the action? Established back in 2002,has always called on underground subcultures to dictate its path. Recently, Cecilie Engberg and Dominic Huckbody have joined to head up the design team, having worked at Balenciaga and Martine Rose, respectively. For this season’s show, the team constructed a makeshift club at Simian gallery to echo the energy that a night out has to offer: a safe space to connect.

All of the pieces that they wear are in many ways pedestrian, but the way in which they combine them is very personal, so people start to look more like characters.” As models stepped out in denim dyed in club-light hues and oversized jackets fused with technical hoodies, it was clear that the designers are game to allow the city’s experimental youth to set the brand’s new agenda.

 

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Look, Acne always was and always will be … We Scandy-conquered Slavs recommend you clamp down on a Smørrebrød and knock back with клюква глог and let us continue to be geniuses (everyone except you: ABBA).

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