Normally, I wouldn’t have Coco Pops for breakfast. But they seemed a good choice when I embarked on a month-long scientific experiment.
Defeated, I poured some milk into her bowl, then read out the UPF ingredients on the packet: glucose syrup, cocoa mass and flavourings. The cereal also contained 20 per cent more salt per gram, I noted, than a typical microwave lasagne.As I watched Lyra continue eating, it struck me she wasn’t fully in control. The pack said that a recommended serving for an adult is 30g . But 30g in, she’d hardly taken a breath. When I suggested one bowl was enough, the idea was instantly dismissed.
My own consumption was even worse: instead of the recommended one portion, I’d effortlessly hoovered up five. If you like, you can prove this by doing your own experiment at home. You’ll need sugar, milk, a bowl, some Rice Krispies and a couple of small children. And there’s another property in most UPF that drives weight gain. Texture. Take Coco Pops: they’re branded as crunchy, and a few do stay crunchy for a while. But, as Lyra and I discovered, the milk and Coco Pops quickly form a kind of textured liquid, and each successive mouthful feels more like a slick of wet, starchy globs.
Spongy, rubbery, crunchy — but really it’s all just as soft as down. As a result, I can inhale a burger in well under a minute. And then I’m probably going to have another because I’m still hungry. Many of these are used simply to save cost, and much of that saving is passed on to us. A loaf of genuine sourdough, for instance, costs £3–6. At the time of writing, the cheapest loaf at Sainsbury’s is 36p and the Hovis is 95p.The various processes and treatment agents in my Hovis loaf mean I can eat a slice even more quickly, gram for gram, than I can put away a UPF burger. The bread disintegrates into a bolus of slime that’s easily manipulated down the throat.
When the results came in, even Hall was shocked. On the UPF diet, people ate an average of 500 calories more per day than those on the unprocessed diet, and they all gained weight. The impact of his 2019 study can’t be overstated: what was once a trickle of evidence has become a deluge as dozens more experiments have revealed the same link between softness, calorie-density and increased body weight.
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