The Grand Hotel, Brighton: 'Afternoon tea is where it's at'– restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

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‘Everyone needs a pick-up now. This classic ritual is a glorious treat’

, served in their rather pretty Victorian terrace lounge overlooking the prom. Twenty types of loose-leaf teas, they promised, and scones, freshly baked. I peered at the rain outside, I looked at my watch and found myself hovering by the reservations desk. We all need an emotional pick-up right now; especially ones we can have mid-afternoon, to be safely off home before the 10pm Covid fairy looms. Perhaps, these days, afternoon tea is actually where it’s at.

 

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In that conservatory, breakfasting alone, was once accosted by a random person to talk mathematics on the basis that he had enjoyed my talk the day before. Happy memory.

The Grand Budapest Hotel

One can dream!

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