Fashion is always a mirror – reflecting its times, reflecting itself but, in actuality refracting rather than reflecting, inventing a new image of that it beholds. It is never piecemeal reconstruction. The same was true here. The mere transposition of Saint Laurent’s couture gestures from the bodies of couture mavens to those of male models – a diverse crew scouted from around the world, united in youth and, it seems, attitude – gave them a different context.
That wardrobe was embedded in the couture history of Saint Laurent, reflecting Vaccarrello’s innate knowledge of the house. When he began, his approach – he told me – was a kind of creative collage, combining details, fabrics and shapes from different pieces from the archive so a single dress could allude to multiple eras and incarnations of Saint Laurent. It was a clever way to begin referencing one of the most awe-inspiring archives in fashion.
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