show by Anthony Vaccarello. Sophisticated. Focused. Devastating. But how about we go with powerful as the most succinct descriptor? Because that’s what this show seemed to be entirely about – the power of a brand to seamlessly erect a pathed garden and fountain, curlicued with wrought-iron and studded with salon chairs upholstered in a redux of the green brocade that draped the salons ofhimself, atop the existing fountain of the Place du Trocadéro in a record two days.
One source of inspiration Vaccarello cited was the fittings polaroids of Saint Laurent – where the slightly bleached, adulterated colours came from, poisonous greens clotted reds, a bruised lilac. And some of the silhouettes of the clothes seemed to hark back to those images – the strong shoulders of this collection spelled the 1980s, to many; as did its slithery hooded dresses in clinging body-conscious knits.
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