You’ll find Funkytown next to a pizza bar and the gaping maw of a mid-construction subway line. It’s a small bar/club in Chengdu, Southwest China. It has a disco ball in the main room, though the club is small enough that calling it the ‘main room’ seems a bit much. A neon light flashes the words ‘civilised dance-floor’ in Mandarin. For a while the wall behind the DJ was covered in tin foil and duct tape that made for nice twinkled refractions of the tracer-arc of disco ball squares and neon.
I’m doing a PhD at a university in England, but I’m doing my fieldwork here in Chengdu. I am writing an ethnography about mental health; I spend a lot of time talking to therapists and their clients about trauma. They’re older than me, most of them. I don’t really imagine that Dr Liu, in her 60s, a fine-blousy woman with hair she’s accidentally dyed purple trying to cover her greys, is down for a boogie chez Funkytown.
There was no waiting for my mates, corralling them to the smoking area to ask where we were going or who was taking what night bus or waiting for the one who works in finance to call an Uber. I just walked out onto the street, scanned the digital bar-code on a shared bike with my phone and cycled home.
The majority of Chinese clubs are not like Funkytown. They tend to be table-heavy, play EDM and be obscenely large. If clubbing is occasionally referred to as going to church, then the metaphor extends along a mutually occurring spectrum that runs from the intimate place of worship all the way through to the evangelical mega-church; the common denominator is worship, the distinction being how much the divine is mediated by your capacity to spend.
Funkytown is not a Chinese mega-club; the kids who go there are the same kids who in London wouldn’t be seen dead at Whiskey Mist or who have guestlist for Theo Parrish in New York, at that one warehouse space in Bushwick they use for every ‘secret’ warehouse party.parking buses outside of clubs
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