Their Autumn/Winter 2023 built on clothes with a degree of utility, even if that seems like a dirty word. I don’t mean boiler suits, or industrial clothes at all really – rather, glances at skiwear, at the kind of suede used for working aprons, and at the tailored suit. The suit was, really, the lynchpin of the whole thing – which is appropriate, given that it developed into its current form during the industrial revolution, a modernist proposal of clothes for movement.
That idea of expansion and reduction wasn’t just about proportion: for Prada and Simons, there was an expansion of the idea of minimalism and of modernismSo there were gestures to warmth and tactility, to exaggeration, to comfort. And there were additions to the rigorous and precise, with fragments of Prada literally pasted to the collars of jackets and cardigans, via snippets of archival-inspired print and fuzzy mohair in intentionally off colours.
Simons dubbed them gestures “towards the heritage and history of the brand, and to the meaning of Prada now”. And of course, that is the purpose of these clothes and of fashion too – not just to dress us now, but to show us how the future may look.
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