Marseille is attracting Parisians south, and it’s changing – but for now it keeps its unique identity On the Rue d’Aubagne, a street cutting through central Marseille, takeaway pizza stalls, street vendors and agitated pedestrians trigger flashbacks of my nativeMarseille is a city on the sea. It’s hot, sunny and the mistral winds whip and whistle through narrow passageways. There are portside tourist traps and ferry tours.
The city’s edge became a selling point. Artists, remote workers and restaurateurs are moving down from Paris in droves, pushing up housing prices. It’s not like its neighbours, Aix or Cannes, that are known for pristine streets, quaintness and glamour – but that’s a good thing. The Marché de Capucins in the central Noailles district is loud and chaotic – the Bar de l’Est is a cool spot to hang out and watch the action. Wander up the hill toward the Cours Julien and La Plaine for the dive bars, which are scattered throughout narrow streets, tucked behind badly marked doors.The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations – the city’s best known, built around the Saint-Jean fortress overlooking the sea – was born of Marseille’s capital of culture tenure.
, the oldest hardware store in France that sells hot-pink feather dusters and Le Creuset cookware, is a lasting relic of the neighbourhood’s 19th-century bourgeois era. The same goes for the sixth-generation herbal medicine shop,
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