to round out the week with a flourish. Dancers, choreographed by Karole Armitage – the ‘punk ballerina’, who rose to prominence in the 1980s – backgrounded a collection that was inspired by the “beauty, promise, sparkle and grit” of a fading New York.
In practice, this meant a transporting leap between eras: colourful swing coats and shift dresses in neon and candy shades conjured the 1950s and 1960s of the American socialite – Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Babe Paley – while simple sweaters, Peter Pan collar shirts, bra-tops and mini skirts, cut with clean lines, shot it forward to the beginnings of Jacobs’ own label, and the birth of minimalism.
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