How does McQueen’s Legacy Live on?

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A look back at this 2015 piece, in which we reflect on how the spirit of the late designer remains in SarahBurton's fantastical collections McQueen

is everywhere you turn. His name is stamped on posters on the underground; his clothes are in the halls of the V&A; his life and loves are detailed in salacious tell-alls that had publishers issuing apologies before they were even released. His is a presence that is impossible to escape.

"His romance, his gothicism, his love of women: these are all tenets of the house that have survived past his explicit direction" But strip back the sell-out exhibitions and the tomes that mythologise the man himself, and McQueen has one particularly celebrated point of recognition: his fashion shows. Unmatched in their fantastical nature, they are the facet of the house that won an audience outside of the fashion industry, making front-page news and headlines throughout Lee’s reign. Models were elevated into creatures of superhuman power in towering shoes and silhouettes exploded with flowers, feathers, shells.

, romance is key to both McQueen and Burton’s work, but the latter’s woman is “a quieter figure…any drama ultimately lay in the obsession with intricate workmanship and surface detail."A neglected element of McQueen’s output is both his menswear and the presence of men throughout – whether walking at Dante, The Hunger and It's a Jungle Out There, working with him on collections, and occasionally doing both – they were a big part of McQueen’s formative years.

"Tailoring has led the collections of McQueen’s recent menswear, but as with Lee's own work, always done with an edge"After all, it was McQueen’s start as an apprentice at Savile Row tailor Anderson & Sheppard that began his fashion career and imbued him with the skills that went on to inform his designs.

 

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