Heurigen: Vienna's hyper-local wine taverns

the rustic winery-run taverns showing off their aromatic white wines around wooden tables set under grape arbors and laden with traditional Austrian fare that might include schnitzel and blood sausage, always potato salad and ham and a variety of savory cheesy spreads to go with dark sourdough bread.s. But Vienna's relationship to wine is unique.

However, Heurigen as we know them today began to proliferate after 1784. That's when Hapsburg Emperor Josef IIissued an ordinance allowing farmers to sell their own wine and produce, tax free, directly to customers. Ever since, Heurigen have been hanging their folksy signature above their entrances, a sign that the tavern is licensed and open.

As the quality of local wines has shot up, drawing younger urban sophisticates to rustic Heurigen tables, many taverns have started paying serious attention to food. Besides the classic Austrian canon of schnitzels,many Heurigen offer special seasonal menus starring, say, chanterelles or asparagus. When the region was still part of the Hapsburg empire, Liptov Brimsen was a prized export to Vienna, according to Austrian journalist Tobias Müller. It was sold there in small wooden barrels, to be eaten on its own or mixed with butter. Two World Wars and 40 years of communism ended this trade relationship, noted Müller.Slovakia's cheese production became nationalised under communist rule.

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