A 12-hands collaboration lunch in a Kapampangan forest

With six chefs handpicked for the occasion, the lunch epicurean and restaurateur Angelo Comsti organized at Balé Pampanga, a sprawl of forest thick with mahogany trees, had all the eloquence of romance, if cooking, as presented in The Taste of Things, were a language of love.

I went alone and early, with hours to spare before taking my spot at the long table, so I had the chance to watch the chefs putter about in the kitchen, where I did see those loving gestures so celebrated in what The New York Times calls “an instant culinary classic,” a triumph both sensorial and sensual, a feast not only for the eyes but also for the rest of the senses.

Next on my eating agenda was the sipo egg by Don Baldosano of Linamnam fame, whose version of it featured quail eggs cooked in shrimp fat and a shrimpTopped with a sprinkle of bougainvillea powder in zesty magenta, it was served with a cream sauce made of potato, carrots, and smoked peas.

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