HO CHI MINH CITY, April 1 — Bitter and earthy. Fit for instant brews only. Robusta coffee has a dire reputation, but a small group of farmers in Vietnam is trying to turn the bean’s fortunes around as a warming world threatens the industry.
“My beans have a fruity, flowery smell, and they taste strong — but in a gentle way,” Ngoc told AFP at her farm close to the city of Pleiku, in the heart of the Vietnamese robusta region.‘Vicious circle of bad quality’ “We get bad quality from robusta, therefore it gets a bad reputation, therefore no one wants to pay a premium for it, therefore there’s no motivation to improve the quality,” he said.
Arabica, which makes up around 60 per cent of the world’s coffee production, originates in the highlands of Ethiopia and South Sudan, and prefers average annual temperatures of around 19 degrees Celsius .Should global production of arabica start to fall short, “people will have to find an alternative supply”, said Pham Thi Diep Giang, deputy director general of Trung Nguyen, one of Vietnam’s top coffee brands.
“We can now produce robusta with a completely different taste, and a scent that anyone would love,” Hung said. Still, outside the country, “Vietnam is regarded as the lowest-quality coffee there is”, Fernandez of the Specialty Coffee Association said.But there are some positive signs. The trend forecasting company WGSN says a change in attitudes toward robusta has already begun.
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