The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024: What does it mean to be ‘the best’?

Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas on stage as Disfrutar is named the world's best restaurant for 2024. — Picture courtesy of The World's 50 BestCOMMENTARY, June 14 — Last Wednesday, the 2024 edition of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list was unveiled in a glitzy ceremony at the Wynn Las Vegas, with Disfrutar in Barcelona taking the top spot.

That same year saw the creation of the Best of the Best category, which keeps former No.1 ranked restaurants from being voted on new editions of the list.Lychee pearl necklace, one of Disfrutar's 30 courses. — Picture courtesy of Disfrutar Bcn That, and the list has taken a liking to a very specific type of restaurant. Words like “progressive”, “modern” and “hyper-seasonal” dominate the list, delivered in emulsions and gels galore across courses, the number of which can get ridiculous at times.Alchemist, at number 8, goes up to 50 courses. Is this really the pinnacle of the restaurant experience?

If money and time were no object, I’m sure that I’ll find a life-changing meal in the bohemian cooking at DiverXO or Gaggan, but I can only eat so much “cutting-edge, gastronomic theatre” before what should have been a meal turns into a lecture. The Chairman has long been Hong Kong’s top representative on the list, before being pipped by this year’s Highest New Entry winner, Wing.

World’S 50 Best Restaurants 2024: What Does It Mean To Be ‘The Best’?

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