Perspective: War and peace in Nagorno-Karabakh

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AZERBAIJAN: They dotted the landscape, pockmarked tiny little skulls of brick and cement digging deep into the undulating ground amid the tall lush gr...

: They dotted the landscape, pockmarked tiny little skulls of brick and cement digging deep into the undulating ground amid the tall lush grass.

No electricity poles or street lights to mar the view, nor to offer some stranded traveller comfort in the night. Sprinkled along the way were a few pogroms here and there, committed by Armenians and Azerbaijanis against each other. On top of a small hill, flew the Azerbaijani flag. A stone monolith stood next to it with Azerbaijani writing on it. Both items were relatively new.

But former war zones aren’t immediately safe after the cease-fire. Although Fuzuli and Susha are safe as far as I could see, the work is not complete. Aghdam, one and a half hour’s drive north from Fuzuli, was rife with land mines, preventing its original inhabitants from returning and reclaiming their home.At least in Susha, located between 1,400 and 1,800 metres altitude in the Karabakh mountains, some residents have started returning or making their plans to return to their old hometown.

Susha, a mountain resort for the Soviet era, is a mix of old and new. Established in the 1700s, it was not as deserted as Fuuzuli, and neither was it completely destroyed, but here and there bullet-riddled statues stood testament to the conflict. The tourism industry here is nascent, with a luxury hotel and restaurant already operational. Work on the spring resort of Isa Bulagi was ongoing.

 

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