Creations by French designer Gabrielle Chanel displayed during the exhibition ‘Gabrielle Chanel, fashion manifesto’ at the Galliera Palais fashion museum.
The creator of the little black dress, tweed suits, two-tone shoes and quilted handbags that are synonymous with French elegance was a very different animal to Karl “the Kaiser” Lagerfeld, who turned her label into a US$100 billion business. The cliche is that Chanel freed women from the tyranny of Victorian corsetry, borrowing liberally from men’s wardrobes to do so.Style revolution
Her Chanel No. 5 perfume, sold in simple square bottles with utilitarian black and ivory labels, was minimalist before minimalism was even a thing.But it is the breathtaking elegance of her cut and silhouettes which will come as the biggest surprise for those raised on Lagerfeld’s showy 36-year reign.
That this is not shouted from the rooftops more often is partly because of what Chanel did during the war, and her subsequent flight to Switzerland after the liberation.Arzalluz acknowledged her “complex personality”, a reference to her “horizontal collaboration” with France’s Nazi occupiers, and her attempts to use their anti-Jewish laws to prise back control of Chanel No 5 from the Wertheimer family who had fled for their lives to the US.
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