Late last year, the Michelin Guide announced that it would be debuting in Malaysia, covering the cities of Kuala Lumpur and Penang. In December 2022, the guide’s inaugural selection of restaurants was revealed, with four restaurants in KL and Penang earning one Michelin star each.
“What kind of list is this?” said one netizen while another, posting on The Star Online Facebook page simply said, “I don’t think we need the Michelin Guide to tell us the best places to eat.” While both have strengths in their own right, positioning two entirely alien restaurants in the same list is befuddling and highly confusing. It’s literally like comparing apples and oranges!
Poullennec is a former Michelin inspector who has worked at the Michelin Guide for over 20 years and now supervises and validates all the decisions made by the international line-up of Michelin inspectors in over 37 countries. Although the final decision is typically made by the inspectors, if there is no consensus or agreement on any particular restaurant, it is Poullennec’s job to then step in and say “Let’s wait and send new people to inspect that restaurant”.
To satisfy all the different cultural and culinary leanings of each destination that the Michelin Guide is at, Poullennec says that Michelin inspectors are in fact trained in the culinary pedagogy that is unique to each location. While Poullennec says Michelin inspectors are trained to determine the best food in each country the guide has a presence in, it would presumably be a tough job for a non-local to distinguish the best versions of a dish like laksa Johor , which has many permutations. — Filepic
“So for Malaysia, the categories are the way we look at it from a gourmet perspective – we identify what defines the style of the restaurants and based on that, we establish categories,” he says.
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