French chef gives traditional ice cream a whipping | Malay Mail

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LILLE, July 24 — He's the new wizard of French ice cream who is sending a chill down the spine of traditionalists. David Wesmael has nothing against a scoop of well-made gelato or a cone of whipped ice cream. But the restless innovator is taking a blowtorch to the “archaic” conventions which...

Ice cream maker David Wesmael, one of France's best craftsmen, at work at his workshop in Lille July 15, 2020. — AFP pic

Biting through the thin chocolate shell of one of his ice cream bars, flavours and textures explode — from crunchy praline to runny caramel and vanilla spiked with lemon confit. From his spherical “vacherins” of filled meringue to ice cream bonbons, bars and “tubes” which can be cut into slices, Wesmael is determined to give the summer treat a place at the top table of haute cuisine.“I am trying to do something different and show the public that ice cream is not something that just comes in a pot or a cornet,” he said.

The same speed and precision is needed for the next step of floating the caramel and candied lemon in vanilla ice cream, so that the middle melts as soon as you bite through the crisp coating.Wesmael also loves making the standard ice creams that he himself calls “archaic.” It was this alchemy and the untapped potential of ice cream that tempted him away from pure patisserie, which has undergone a huge renaissance in France in recent years.

 

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