Elderly Indonesian culinary legend’s sweet treats stand the test of time

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YOGYAKARTA, July 15 — As the morning twilight approaches in an Indonesian city famed for its street food scene, a queue of sleepy customers snakes its way along the road in...

YOGYAKARTA, July 15 — As the morning twilight approaches in an Indonesian city famed for its street food scene, a queue of sleepy customers snakes its way along the road in anticipation of a local culinary legend.

Now 76 years old, Mbah Satinem was the Indonesian cultural hub’s best-kept secret for decades but is today a cooking sensation after shooting to fame in the 2019 Netflix seriesEvery day, she opens her stall before dawn and hunches over a table to prepare and dish out traditional market snacks known as jajan pasar.

“I’ve been selling lupis for a very long time, nothing has changed,” she said from the stall she has run since 1963.She cuts it with a nylon thread, carefully placing it on the banana leaf before dripping thick liquid palm sugar and sprinkling grated coconut over the breakfast fare. “She asked again whether I would feel embarrassed about it, but I said I wouldn’t. So, she agreed to make some snacks for me to sell.”

“The taste of her lupis is still the same,” said 49-year-old Budi, a local who like many Indonesians goes by one name. One of them is Rama Luhur from the capital Jakarta, who waited nearly two hours to get a taste of the famous lupis after seeing Satinem on Netflix.

 

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