PARIS, Aug 28 — France’s record heat and drought have not spared the majestic pastures under the snow-capped Alps, where cows are struggling to find enough grass to produce milk for reblochon and other prized cheeses.
But this year, some heading to Bargetzy’s Lorettes farm perched above La Clusaz are coming away empty-handed — cows are not getting their usual fill of fresh grass, and their milk is less rich as a result. It takes four litres of milk to make each cheese that weighs some 450 grammes — within the guidelines set by the National Institute of Origin and Quality , the guardian of France’s strict food and wine appellations.
Duclos and his family manage a farm with more than 200 cows for making emmental as well as meat near Frangy, with an app-controlled milking system that would astonish his grandfather, who had “four cows and four hectares to feed 11 children.” He worries that rising costs of feed, gas and electricity since the outbreak of the Ukraine war will create a vicious circle of price speculation and hoarding that could hurt farmers for months to come.
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